d8b Forum

I haven't turned on my D8B in a while, and a friend came over I wanted to show the board off too. Well, I turn on the D8B, and 2 channels have lit up Meters and no motorized fader control. (2 & 12 I believe) I ran the Fader Calibration tool, and all but those two channels responded. The LED's on the Meter Bridge stayed lit. I powered off the unit, and powered it back on.....now mysteriously everything works again, the faders respond, no LED's lit on the Meter.....very odd....but I'm not complaining....yet.

Needless to say, it worries me a bit, and I have not yet opened up the console to clean or reseat anything yet since purchasing. Has anyone seen this sort of "phantom fader" issue? And what should I be looking for? I guess it's time for a late spring cleaning inside the ol' D8B....

Believe it or not that's pretty normal on a d8b.

Mine does that from time to time. Nothing to worry about, just power off and restart, and hopefully, everything will be good.

Peter Holmquist.

Standard operational procedure... It is particularly likely to happen when you're syncing something else via the BNC port and the D8B is not the first device in your power-on sequence.

Well, an hour's worth of poking around later, I've learned 2 things. 1, the inside of my D8B is amazingly clean and dust free. Surprising considering it used to be the house live Mixer at a local church for many years. 2. I'm missing a Rubber foot. How I never noticed this before is beyond me, but where the hell do I get a foot from? 3. The insulation on the main connector cable has seperated from the metal connector flange and is exposing the wires inside. I have no problem opening the 2 allen screws that hold the wire to the flange, but what am I going to find once I open it, and how do I fix the insulation issue, so I can't see exposed wires? I mean.....I got electrical tape, and I ain't afraid to use it, but my primary concern is to protect the wiring inside so a cut or abrasion doesn't create even more issues. I see a braided metal insulator peeled back....is that supposed to ground to something? I just want a better understanding of the connector before I take it apart to fix....

Anyone have experience with this issue?

Also, I don't have my D8B connected to anything at the moment. But I cleaned and reseated all the ribbon cables and pulled and reseated all the cards. About to fire it back up in a moment. Will see if the problem persists.

Okay, another issue rearing it's ugly head, when I boot the Machine, the BIOS voltage information display shows my voltages are completely out of whack. But EVERYTHING is red, and the temp sensor is way off. Here's what it says

Vcore 4.00 (Hi limit is 3.6)
Vio 4.00 (Hi limit 3.65)
5v 6.90 (Hi Limit 5.5)
12v 15.5 (Hi limit 13.2)
-12v 14.357 (Hi limit 10.800)
-5v 6.181 (Hi limit -4.5)

Uhm, what the heck? Is the M/b sensor or PS Sensor just taken a dump?

System Temp 250 C????????????
CPU Temp 64C (seems plausible, but at this point I don't know if I believe any of it. I assume this would be the PC board PS about to take a dump if it's legit? Board works fine, fader calibration normal (although I did get a reboot during the first attempt of Calibration). No LED's lit on meters. I mean, should I turn it off and ignore it, or is this a legit issue???? I suppose I'll replace the power supply if I have to, I just don't know what to believe of what I am seeing at this point.

Oh crap....Error 43....boot stops at AMI BIOS Configuration screen! CRAP CRAP CRAP! Now what!? And no, no floppy disk in drive. Mine didn't come with the OS disks (As I discovered after the fact :/)

Okay Major WHEW! I returned the BIOS to optimal default, redetected the Hard Drive, and everything came back (now I need to change my shorts! lol)

Good for you!

However, those voltages look really scary, did the BIOS reset solve that, as well? If not, I'd suggest to switch off immediately and leave it that way until you get the voltages checked precisely, on the connectors. Maybe you'll need a new XT/AT power supply or get this one recapped - dried-out caps can cause such overvoltage. It can really kill your MB and that will be a tough one to crack!

Axeman098 wrote:Okay Major WHEW! I returned the BIOS to optimal default, redetected the Hard Drive, and everything came back (now I need to change my shorts! lol)

What do you mean "optimal default?" Did you set them according to d8b specs and the motherboard you have or did you select "default" in the bios settings? If you did the default selection within the bios settings screen, you do not have them set correctly for a d8b console. This is nothing fatal but the "default" settings are not the same as what the d8b use FYI. You can get the settings around here some where specific to your processor, be it 166Mhz or 300 Mhz.

I am not sure how much stock I would take in any of those voltage readings... I guess if I were in your shoes and I was concerned, I would get out the multi-meter and take some measurements but chances are I would get the bios right and keep on truckin'.

No, I matched BIOS to Database specs, and it came right up. The Voltages DO concern me, but I guess it is time for a multimeter check to be sure. The next obvious question is, If the Meter says the voltages don't jive with what I'm seeing, THEN what? I suppose I can track down another power supply if I have to, but if the meter shows the PS in spec, then I suppose it's a sensor issue on the mb. Replacing the MB could prove problematic, as mine did not come with the appropriate Disks and ESN# paperwork (Something I did not realize at the time of sale). The board's legit because I bought it from a church, but when I went back to ask about the stuff, they couldn't locate it. (You'd think the paperwork on a $10k board would be worth keeping eh?) My board's only running v3.0 for now, but I suppose it's gonna be a long ring around the rosey with Mackie if I want to buy v5.1 legit....can't wait to see what that takes

Axeman098 wrote:......as mine did not come with the appropriate Disks and ESN# paperwork (Something I did not realize at the time of sale).

Your ESN number is kept on the brain board inside the actual desk not the mobo. As for OS and Plugin disks, files can be downloaded from the mackie website and extracted to floppies. You can also contact mackie and give them your ESN and they should be able to tell you what is registered and give you the codes for them. I did this for mine when I bought it, unfortunately nothing had ever been registered except the TC reverb and that's free.

If you can find a new mobo(if that turns out to be the problem) then everything else will fall into place where it should as far as software and unlock codes go.

-Casey