d8b Forum

Is anyone selling a CPU unit for the D8B? I hope to get mine to communicate with host, but if not, I may need another CPU, let me know if you're selling one.

Try ebay. I've been seeing one since few weeks.

SynthJoe, you were recommended by Crash from the Mackie Forum, D8B, well, the situation is like so, I purchased a D8B, well, I'm a Newbie, and I thought I could install Ram and OS 5.1, well, I call Mackie and the tech person, said, "Install RAM, then install 5.1, well, this is where everything changes, first, I'm only able to go to AMIBIOS, Error 43, Host will not boot". I call Mackie again, their reply, "Clear CMOS, remove RAM, Battery, mover Jumper from 1 2 to 2 3 position, well, I did as instructed, only with the 1 2 to 2 3, I took it to mean the Red Cube shaped devices were the jumper, because they are numbered 1 2 3 and ON is written on the top. Well, I wait and hour or two for battery to drain. I returned the jumper from 2 3 to 1 2 and installed battery and Original RAM, power up the CPU and all I got was the Black Screen,

After holding the Delete key at boot you will enter the Motherboard BIOS. Here you will see an option called Load Default BIOS Settings. If you are unable to get into the BIOS (say you set a password and forgot it) you can pull the Clear CMOS jumper off the motherboard - found between the BIOS EPROM and the battery. Move the jumper over one position. Pull the power cable and let the computer sit for 5 or 10 minutes, then move the jumper back to its original position. BIOS should now be reset. Remember, you still need to modify the BIOS for the D8B. The third sentence in the new paragraph is the one I'm trying to perform, if you are unable to get into the BIOS, etc.. Any help, you can give will be greatly appreciated.
I would love to get this unit back to the 3.0 state, and I would be happy, I don't have to have 5.1 nor the 256MB RAM.

Blastin, I've got the feeling that you're on the wrong path. If the 'jumper' you're trying to '1-2-3' looks something like this (in red, on your motherboard, I understand):
then you've got the wrong 'jumper'. Changing these switches will make the chipset 'think' it has another processor installed than the actual and the result is blank screen, no boot. So, if you've changed these switches your primary concern for the time being should be to get the DIP switch settings back to the original. Right now there's no point for you to worry about clearing the CMOS.

Which motherboard do you have, the new or the old one? If you have the older type (something tells me that's the one you have), then which switch setting did you modify: SW1, SW2 or SW3? Please check the label silkscreened on the motherboard next to the switch.

Keep well away from SW2! You can zap your CPU if you change that, as those switches are meant to configure the CPU core voltage. If set incorrectly, your CPU might get underpowered and will not work, or get too hight a voltage and will quickly overheat and burn out (faster than you're able to realize what is happening)!

Sorry, but that's what happened, I have OLD motherboard, this is what happened to the best of my knowledge, I powered down CPU, removed RAM 256 (128MB from MDR), removed battery. On the RED Switch, SW1 & SW2, were ON, so I changed them to DOWN, position, SW3, I moved to up (ON). I waited and hour, and returned SW3 to down (OFF), and SW1 & SW2, I moved to up (ON), position, reinstalled battery, and memory stick, then I powered up CPU and that's when, I got the Black Screen. Is there anyway I could test CPU, to see if its underpowered or overpowered? Or do I have to take it to a computer repair shop? The reason, I did that is because Mackie Tech, told me to "Clear CMOS, and those were the items I needed to change in order to Clear CMOS". I hope the CPU is underpowered and I think that could be the reason, I've also, removed monitor, video card, tried different video card. Reseated cables, and RAM.

SW1, SW2 and SW3 are each a group of three switches in three different red 'bricks' at different locations on the board. I believe what you're referring to are the switch posiions on one of the SW groups - but not sure I understand you correctly. So, did you just change a single group of three (which one? - check silkscreen on the board), or all three groups of switches were altered?

I moved the left SW3, the one above the (A - Zif socket) on that one, I moved from left to right, switch 1 and 2 to the OFF position and 3 to ON position, after I had removed the RAM and Battery. I waited an hour, replace Battery and RAM, moved switch 3 to OFF position and switch 1 and 2 to ON position, then I powered up CPU, and that's when the Black Screen appeared.

Blastin,

I sent you a PM.

All my best,
Michael

OK, I'm afraid then that your best bet will be to get someone experienced in computer repair from the late '90s to take a look at it. Current PC repair skills won't cut it. If you've touched SW3 only, then I don't think it is anything major or that your computer has died. However, there are just too many variables to continue guessing remotely. Unfortunately on boards from this era there were many things to configure and all those should now be checked, there were too many things changed. Current hardware is mostly auto-configuring, but not these - hence the need for matured PC repair skills.

Settings on SW3 seem to be fine, so we should look elsewhere. Since the battery has been removed, maybe a CMOS clear would be a good idea after all, the jumper for that is located as indicated below. However, I'm afraid I can't help more, but someone in your proximity will, I'm sure. My advice is: don't try to fix it yourself, unless you know exactly what you're doing and why you're doing it, rather get someone experienced to help you!

Good luck!

Blastin, did you ever put the original RAM back?