Phantom Power / Rode NT1-A

[doktor1360]

Hey Y'all...

I recently purchased a Rode NT1-A, and I've got the pre for the channel dimed and I'm barely registering any input siggy. Yes, the channel is selected and the phantom power button is applied, to supply the required -48V (just to be clear). I'm actually assuming the -48V rail is operational, because haven't used a condenser mic requiring phantom power on this particular board. The desk works works as expected with dynamic mics (SM57's), I plugged an SM57 and killed the phantom power just make sure I'm not losing it, my mind that is *grinning*

I really don't wanna have to think about getting this repaired or replaced, warranty or not - or have to start tearing into troubleshooting the phantom power on the desk either. I assume however I'm gonna have to check the phantom power rail voltage, just to make sure the mic is being powered correctly. Anyone have anything to add here before I go all Riot-Squad with this thing...

Thanx in advance y'all...

Peace

[doktor1360]

Hey Y'all...

I recently purchased a Rode NT1-A, and I've got the pre for the channel dimed and I'm barely registering any input siggy. Yes, the channel is selected and the phantom power button is applied, to supply the required -48V (just to be clear). I'm actually assuming the -48V rail is operational, because haven't used a condenser mic requiring phantom power on this particular board. The desk works works as expected with dynamic mics (SM57's), I plugged an SM57 and killed the phantom power just make sure I'm not losing it, my mind that is *grinning*

I really don't wanna have to think about getting this repaired or replaced, warranty or not - or have to start tearing into troubleshooting the phantom power on the desk either. I assume however I'm gonna have to check the phantom power rail voltage, just to make sure the mic is being powered correctly. Anyone have anything to add here before I go all Riot-Squad with this thing...
Peace

Here we go, replying to my own posts again...

Well, I'm assuming I've got a 48V power rail issue. Per the DIN spec 45 595 (31-Aug-1976) there should be ~ 48VDC btw xlr pins 1 (grd) and 2 (+/send), and also btw pins 1 and 3 (-/return) - should essentially read zero btw pins 2 & 3 regardless. When I measured volts/amps (per spec testing) at the xlr connector at the rear of the D8B desk, I got negligible voltage and/or current readings (btw the same pinouts as above). So, I can only assume there's an issue somewhere with the 48VDC supply voltage. Time to strap on a f'n helmet, and look deeper. Anyone have anything at all (personal experience, etal) to add here regarding the Phantom Power supply voltage? Any/all input is greatly welcomed and appreciated...

Thanx in advance, y'all...

Peace

[arjepsen]

You probably know more than me on this topic, but anyways:
Have you tried any other of the mic preamp channels? Maybe wiggle the gain knob a lot to see if it's a tired old pot issue?

[Old School]

Hi Doc,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have a Rode like yours and find it to be a high quality mic. It seems especially good for smoothing out the vocals of people who sing a little too hard. Hope you can get your phantom power working, but if not perhaps an outboard phantom power unit would work? Just a thought.

Have a blessed day in Christ,
Mike W.

[Bruce Graham]

Hi Dok;

I checked my d8b and I have +48v DC (46 on my meter) between pins 1 & 2, and +48 between Pins 1 & 3, and "0" v between 2 & 3. That is the Phantom Standard. There is no -48v DC.

If anyone once a detail description and history of how this works (layman words) I will do so.

My suggestion is to test the mic on another console that has Phantom Power to make sure it works. Not sure but it sounds like you 48v PS isn't working based on what you wrote.

It is possible that the 48v PS switches need a cleaning. Mine where very stiff and the voltage was in consistent.

Cheers
Bruce

[doktor1360]

Hi Dok;

I checked my d8b and I have +48v DC (46 on my meter) between pins 1 & 2, and +48 between Pins 1 & 3, and "0" v between 2 & 3. That is the Phantom Standard. There is no -48v DC.

If anyone once a detail description and history of how this works (layman words) I will do so.

My suggestion is to test the mic on another console that has Phantom Power to make sure it works. Not sure but it sounds like you 48v PS isn't working based on what you wrote.

LOL

That's a 'tilde' signifying 'around / approximately' 48VDC, Bruce... reckon I should spell things out to avoid confusion of the issue... *winks*

I'm gonna open my cpu up, Spidey Sense is tingling and I'm starting to think the issue is in the +48V rail at the source - the power supply itself, a blown fuse. That would be ideal, it's an easy fix. We'll see...

Peace

[doktor1360]

Hi Doc,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have a Rode like yours and find it to be a high quality mic. It seems especially good for smoothing out the vocals of people who sing a little too hard. Hope you can get your phantom power working, but if not perhaps an outboard phantom power unit would work? Just a thought.

Have a blessed day in Christ,
Mike W.

I got mine for a great deal, $125 from some guy in TX on eBay Mike. Used 2x, with all the original packaging. And yeah, it works as far functional - I got some buds at local music shops and I quickly tested the NT1-A. I've had some exposure to them, and I really like how they handle the upper mids - in reality, the clarity of the whole sound field with these microphones is stunning. I plan on getting a coupla Rode NT5's for overheads, damn fine mics and the best matched pair value under $500 anywhere (IMPHO). Mix these w a few SM57's... and then on to either fill out the rest of a drum mic rota individually or purchase one of those Sennheiser or Audix kits - I've heard really good things about the Sennheiser kit in particular. Any thoughts here anyone?

At any rate, I think I got this phantom power thing figured out. I gotta open the cpu (see my reply to Bruce's post)... thinking blown fuse on the +48VDC rail...

Peace

[Crash]

The fuse is where I would start.

Just to muddy the waters on mics, if you can try out the Lewitt mics, they make a decent kit. Lewitt was kind of enough to let me check out the 940 tube/FET mic, the 840 tube and the 550. The build quality was beyond first rate. I wish I had the chance to try out the drum kit based on the others I tried. My partner ended up keeping the 840.

[Old School]

Hi Doc,
I had a set of the Sennheiser E604 mics and they didn't last 2 years before they ceased to function. For the kick, I use a shure SM-91. It gives great tone and punch. I just lay it on a pillow in the bottom of the kick.

Have a blessed day in Christ,
Mike W.

[doktor1360]

The fuse is where I would start.

Just to muddy the waters on mics, if you can try out the Lewitt mics, they make a decent kit. Lewitt was kind of enough to let me check out the 940 tube/FET mic, the 840 tube and the 550. The build quality was beyond first rate. I wish I had the chance to try out the drum kit based on the others I tried. My partner ended up keeping the 840.

Wow... seriously looking at the DTP Beat Kit Pro 7, Crash... that kit is really at the 'pain point' as far as costs... the sound field capture is really 'heady' tho, especially listening to the individual sound samples of the various mics. They're almost a 'must have'... actually are, for me... now... thanx a lot... LMAO

Peace