Remote 24 problem

[John T]

Hi all,

Have just got a remote 24 off ebay, and can't seem to get it working properly.

The self test operates as it should. The unit gets power from the HDR. I'm definitely connected to the remote socket, not the ethernet, and cable is not a crossover cable.

However, all the unit will do at the moment (other than the self test) is show 0 for take number, and 00 for track number. No other LEDs are lit, and no controls respond.

The HDR is working as fine from both the GUI and the front panel with it plugged in, so it's not a system crash.

I feel like I'm overlooking something obvious, but can't think what it could be.

Any thoughts most welcome and appreciated.


Thanks,
John

[doktor1360]

Hi all,

Have just got a remote 24 off ebay, and can't seem to get it working properly.

The self test operates as it should. The unit gets power from the HDR. I'm definitely connected to the remote socket, not the ethernet, and cable is not a crossover cable.

However, all the unit will do at the moment (other than the self test) is show 0 for take number, and 00 for track number. No other LEDs are lit, and no controls respond.

The HDR is working as fine from both the GUI and the front panel with it plugged in, so it's not a system crash.

I feel like I'm overlooking something obvious, but can't think what it could be.

Any thoughts most welcome and appreciated.


Thanks,
John

Hey John...

Have a look at this thread... I experienced some strange fart knockery with my own Remote 24 in the past.

http://www.d8bforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2479&p=18266&hilit=remote+24#p18266

For starters, post back if this appears to be familiar with things or not...

[John T]

Hi there, thanks for the reply. I did see that post earlier when searching. Have been hoping for the same "it magically fixed itself" experience, but no luck so far

That is all useful information for diagnostics though. I've got most of a second HDR for spares, so I might start just by swapping out the remote card, see if that helps.

[doktor1360]

Hi there, thanks for the reply. I did see that post earlier when searching. Have been hoping for the same "it magically fixed itself" experience, but no luck so far

That is all useful information for diagnostics though. I've got most of a second HDR for spares, so I might start just by swapping out the remote card, see if that helps.

It was a funky problem, to say the least... stay with it, man - I'm sure it'll get worked out.

Just post here if you run into anything as you go along...

[John T]

Will do, thanks. I feel like it's not electronically complicated enough to be truly unfixable.

[doktor1360]

Will do, thanks. I feel like it's not electronically complicated enough to be truly unfixable.

IIRC John, it was some issue inside the HDR itself, concerning a connector. I'm scraping off brain cells to remember wtf I actually did... but I do remember this - I basically checked the fuse(s) inside the remote itself for integrity, and generally made sure that everything looked OK visually and was connected properly. It's a fairly simple device, voltages and signaling via CAT5 cabling... nothing special - not a whole helluva lot of any complexity of any sort. On the other end however, inside the HDR it can get complicated... specifically, just checking things visually it's really easy to overlook something not being connected properly, etal... ultimately, that's where voltage and data originate.

Personally, I'd start at Square One... its a new (to your platform) piece of gear being introduced. At the Remote 24 end, check the fuse(s) and voltage(s). It those voltage(s) are present it's most likely the unit is good, and there's something preventing any voltage @ the HDR from powering the unit up. Just for useful purposes (and Shitz n Grinz) check the integrity of the CAT5 cable... it's not too far fetched to think that it could be damaged or otherwise compromised. Being pragmatically thorough is best with any of this mercurial Mackie gear, might take a little longer but your efforts will leave nothing to question in the wake tho.

Keep the thread updated if you will, I'm certainly interested... it'll get worked out one way or another...

[John T]

Thanks for this, all very helpful. It'll likely take me a few days to get to it, with one thing and another. But will definitely report back.

[John T]

I should note that the Remote 24 does actually power up, it just doesn't seem to talk to the HDR (or vice versa).

[John T]

Got a question actually. Do you remember how you opened the thing up?

Have removed all the screws and taken the sides off, but the base is still really firmly attached. Do I need to remove the rubber feet? And if so, how? Are they glued on or something? Can't really tell just looking at the thing.

[doktor1360]

Got a question actually. Do you remember how you opened the thing up?

Have removed all the screws and taken the sides off, but the base is still really firmly attached. Do I need to remove the rubber feet? And if so, how? Are they glued on or something? Can't really tell just looking at the thing.

I just looked at mine... IIRC, the 4 side screws (2 per side), and the two small screws on the bottom. Then it looks like the bottom plate is fit in there with two flanges. Once those screws are removed from the bottom, it looks like it then needs to be slid back in the opposite direction of sliding it into the assembly... and no you don't have to remove the rubber feet. I remember it was 'different' getting that bottom plate off in some way. The remotes chassis by all appearances is a piece of stamped aluminum in an elongated sort of 'C' shape with the bottom plate. both being powder coated... that's this is capped and assembled with the end pieces. Actually a nice design, but I digress...

That's what I (vaguely) remember... just exercise caution and you'll figure out any 'unknowns'...

I stand corrected if any of this information is erroneous...

As always, here it comes :
[Standard Mgmt Disclaimer] - "Your actual mileage may vary..."