Possible D8B issue?

[Axeman098]

Actually, I have a Pentium 166Mhz on one of the old Amptron boards, it originally had 64Mb of the older, smaller memory in it, which I swapped out for PC100 DIMMs. I've been gone for a bit on vacation, but I'll post some Meter results in the next few days as I dig into it. Part of me (The inner geek) would like to try doing the ATX swapout mod described in the database. I've found more than a few references to this really helping the console boot quicker and more smoothly. The lazy part of me that doesn't want to risk a bunch of modifications, would just like to find another AT PSU and make the swap and be done with it, however I think long term reliability-wise, the ATX mod/swap is probably the better option. I will need to find out a bit more detail on how it is done, but I would feel a lot better knowing I could swap out the AT for a nice Antec or Cooler Master ATX PSU. a 350-400watt unit should be MORE than enough to handle that old of a setup(shouldn't it?), and lord knows there's really nothing in the D8B box that would be a huge power draw. I just need to see how the mod is done correctly and I will probably go that route, as I'm sure that might actually be easier than trying to find another AT unit.

[synthjoe]

I've found more than a few references to this really helping the console boot quicker and more smoothly.

I have my doubts. Perception is a strong thing - but facts are even stronger, if observed. I have not seen any factual reports on how much faster or 'smoother' the console would operate. Quieter, I'm inclined to believe that without factual evidence, but faster - only if someone shows the hard data.

The lazy part of me that doesn't want to risk a bunch of modifications...

Let's call that wisdom, rather.

[Axeman098]

Well, I mean, I don't mind doing it, if it would either make a significant difference in the reliability of the machine, OR finding a suitable AT PSU replacement proves difficult. Either way, I just want my D8B to work reliably, so if a little tinkering is required, I'm up to the task, I just want minimal fuss, and maximum reliability.

[Axeman098]

Okay, meter testing confirmed one thing for sure.....the readings I'm seeing from the BIOS readouts is total BS. + and - 5v rails are around 5.44 to 5.66. 12v + and - rails BOTH at 10.66. THAT I'm a bit concerned about, as I don't want to undervolt the console either, but I dont know what is normal for this PSU? I'm POSITIVE now the BIOS info is garbage, and I can turn it off easy enough, but now the low 12v rail voltage concerns me. Should I be worried?

[Casey_Pittman]

I don't think you have much to worry about. That 12V is getting regulated down to 5V in most cases and the parts that get the full 12V are well within the operating parameters @ 10.whatever V.

Now stop your worrin and make music!

-Casey

[Axeman098]

LOL ok ok, I'm actin like a OCD'd Mother Hen I know LOL, just can't help it, because if Marc's project pans out nicely, The setup I have envisioned for my Home studio is the D8B as the controller for PT9/Sonar X1, with some nice rack mounted 8 channel Pre's, with everything tucked into my nice 7ft tall Dell 19" Rolling Server Rack next to the Desk. I'll be able to move and access my entire setup with ease, BOTH PC's will be mounted in the rack (Mackie AND Recording, with all pre's, either the MOTU or the RME RayDAT etc. and I can even make it mobile if I want, which would be damned cool to pull off I have a Flight case for the D8B, but I dont know how much I'd really want to drag it out, but I AM a geek.... I just want the option I gots planz man! ROFL

I'm looking hard at 5.1 just in the interim while waiting for Marc's solution, so as to access HUI mode for DAW control, but WHERE can I find more info about HUI and how that jives with MIDI and just HOW MUCH control I can configure? What is and IS NOT assignable in HUI? Marc's project will make it a moot point, but I would still like the option of being able to use the console on it's own if I had to, and know and understand exactly what I can and can't do with it...

[synthjoe]

Casey, I'm sorry to contradict - it's not that I want to argue with you!
5.44V and 5.66V looks way too much for me. 5.25V would be the highest upper tolerance limit in most cases, sometimes going up to 5.5V but sometimes being as low as 5.1V - so definitively a worrying reading. Also, 10.66V seems too far off to my taste, even though it should not be too much of an issue due to the reasons Casey wrote. Only thing it is not an indicator of good things.

Such differences (one rail up, the other down) in most of the cases I've experienced, were due to dried out electrolytic filter caps in the PSU. So I guess a replacement of those 5-6 caps would be a cheap preventive measure. Anyone at least mildly experienced with PC PSU repair would be able to do that job safely. And bad filter caps result in spikes on the power rails which might also explain the weird readings of the BIOS. Would be nice to see those values cleaning up after the recapping.

[Casey_Pittman]

Contradict away. I agree a good cap replacement should help some of those out. But don't be surprised if it doesn't fix them all.

-Casey

[Crash]

Okay, meter testing confirmed one thing for sure.....the readings I'm seeing from the BIOS readouts is total BS. + and - 5v rails are around 5.44 to 5.66. 12v + and - rails BOTH at 10.66. THAT I'm a bit concerned about, as I don't want to undervolt the console either, but I dont know what is normal for this PSU? I'm POSITIVE now the BIOS info is garbage, and I can turn it off easy enough, but now the low 12v rail voltage concerns me. Should I be worried?

This is what I suspected all along... All these settings are listed as N/A on the BIOS settings page which means if you set the BIOS as the factory had them, you would be none the wiser to what these readings were anyway. If you have not done anything to change any of these voltages, I wouldn't worry with it, especially if the console is working as advertised.